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Yohji Yamamoto launched his eponymous line in Tokyo in 1976, with the idea of creating men’s coats that could cover and protect a woman. He debuted his womenswear in Paris in 1981, with dramatic runway shows that furthered his reputation as an avant-garde visionary – although he prefers the title of “dressmaker” for its humble significance. Over the years, Yamamoto has refined his signature silhouette of long, sweeping skirts, expertly draped dresses and trousers, and asymmetrically cut tailoring in an all-black palette to achieve an at once challenging, romantic, and unconventionally elegant effect. His voluminous shapes at once conceal and intrigue, infusing artistic cuts with an intellectual and poetic sensibility indebted to Eastern philosophy.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO knotted backpack

Black wool knotted backpack from Yohji Yamamoto. This item is unisex. Wool 100%

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Asymmetric panel wool trousers

An X-ray invitation confused attendees toYOHJI YAMAMOTO’s SS17 show until he explained, “it’s about my feelings; during my time in the fashion business, I’ve felt very alone”. How to translate that sense of vulnerability to cloth? These trousers do it artfully, serenading a wide-leg cut with an asymmetric panel that reaches up and across the body, but not fully covering it. Wear yours with a bandeau underneath for the right amount of coverage. Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Signature-embroidered cotton and linen-blend coat

YOHJI YAMAMOTO’s mastery of avant-garde construction has earned him critical acclaim ever since he first debuted in Paris in 1981. Born from the offbeat aesthetic, this cotton and linen-blend coat trades any perennial connotations by skewing the eye with an asymmetric hem pieced between two alternating panels. The artisanal sensibility continues over the shoulder with an embroidered signature dangling pieces of thread in tow. Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Detachable collar poplin dress

Drapery, ingenuity and versatility –YOHJI YAMAMOTO’s dress encapsulates the Japanese designer’s signature aesthetic in his favoured moody hue. Conjured in swathes of lightweight poplin to sink from shoulder to hem, the addition of a detachable collar gives this layer an added dimension when topped above tailored trousers. Think tonal when styling, it’s the only way to appease fashion’s master tailor. Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Asymmetric-shoulder linen dress

YOHJI YAMAMOTO’s designs expose a level of vulnerability more commonly seen in art. The silhouettes matched the theme, exposing and revealing flesh with sensitivity. This linen dress would be a simple and minimalist design if it weren’t for the buttoned cloak detail that drapes one shoulder in swathes of fabric. Both elegant and nonchalant at once, wear yours with sculptural flats to progress the modern Japanese aesthetic. Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Buttoned-panel linen dress

YOHJI YAMAMOTO’s designs expose a level of vulnerability more commonly seen in art. The silhouettes matched the theme, exposing and revealing flesh with sensitivity. This linen dress would be a simple and minimalist design if it weren’t for the long cape sleeves and buttoned, printed panel. Both elegant and nonchalant at once, wear yours with sculptural flats to progress the modern Japanese aesthetic. Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Wrapped-overlay satin coat

Some ofYOHJI YAMAMOTO’s SS17 designs were difficult to decipher one from the next, and that made them all the more appealing. Among the coveted layers was this pure satin coat – a layer made vulnerable by its clever shaping and reconfiguring. Designed in an all-over thin stripe, a buttoned panel keeps it in place at the waist while the left side is more or less totally open to the elements. Use it as the conversation starter to an all-black look. Red

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Lace-up pinstripe-print gabardine top

YOHJI YAMAMOTO’s designs purposely shun trends for tradition, but that doesn’t mean ingenuity goes amiss. Trading lightweight cotton for gabardine to give a stiffer structure, this top adopts boardroom tendencies from the front with its suiting pinstripe print and conceals an avant-garde ideal at the reverse, laced from collar to cropped placket with a drawstring tie. Layer uncinched to give the boxy structure its kudos. Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Open-back cotton-poplin shirt

As one of Japan’s most celebrated fashion gatekeepers,YOHJI YAMAMOTOis a force to be reckoned with at either side of the globe. This cotton-poplin shirt adopts the designer’s signature oversized aesthetic, swapping a spread for a band collar and cut skewed with an asymmetric hemline. While expected from the front, the reverse reveals a dramatic open back plunged between two draped panels – another moniker of the Japanese maverick. White

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Draped drill dress

According toYOHJI YAMAMOTOthe colour black is both “modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy – but mysterious.” A predominant fixture for the Japanese designer, the SS17 edit stays true to tradition to include this drill dress conditioned in the moody hue. Conjured with Yohji’s expert drapery at the reverse, this sleeveless number will do well layered atop tailored pants to vibe an avant-garde look. Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Crossover strap linen and cotton-blend dress

A creation crafted by master tailorYOHJI YAMAMOTOis sure to be constructed with the utmost precision. While this linen and cotton-blend dress seems haphazard in its profile, there’s no doubt the Japanese designer’s hand has skewed it with as much attention to detail as he would a tailored suit. Suspended from the shoulders with crossover straps and unrestricted with its draped skirt, consider yours the interlude to a shirt and pant duo. Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Fringe-detailed wool coat

Envelop your body in this wool coat by Japanese designerYOHJI YAMAMOTO. Reconfigured silhouettes are like catnip to this designer and SS17 was awash with surprising cuts and double-take shapes. Among them was this wool layer with its asymmetric hem and mock overlay. The back turns to reveal an open window, covered only by braided twists of fabric that send the silhouette spinning into three-dimensional realms. Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Colour-block cotton and linen-blend coat

If you leave a garment in the hands ofYOHJI YAMAMOTO, you can rely on it being reconfigured and rejigged into something artfully poetic. For SS17 this was particularly true as the designer drew on how alone he has felt in the fashion business. Styles such as this cotton and linen-blend coat are treated to emotional draping and asymmetric, unfinished cuts as a siren panel creates a trigger warning at the front. Red

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Draped cotton-jersey dress

Draped, dyed to a dark shade and structured with an underlay that plays with the proportions of the silhouette - this dress could only be aYOHJI YAMAMOTO. Fashioned from smooth cotton, the midi cut is demure but far from drab with its waterfall-like detailing and buttoned strings that swing from the shoulders. Styling-wise, it works great with leather ankle boots and a statement tote. Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Suspender-detail high-rise wool skirt

Suspenders are a strong theme ofYOHJI YAMAMOTO's SS17 edit. Seen across pants and dresses, the buckle-fastened straps appear at the sides of this high-rise skirt . The choice is yours, you can opt to sling them over your shoulders, or let them hang loose for a more relaxed stance. Fashioned from pure wool, the midi silhouette of this off-beat piece is further detailed with a line of buttons that arcs across the draped panel at the front. Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Draped cotton-poplin shirt

Draped detailing is a strong part of theYOHJI YAMAMOTOnarrative; seen here down the front of this cotton-poplin shirt , it's a design technique that gives a standard separate multi-dimensional appeal. Texturing aside, the short-sleeved layer is measured and cut to deliberately oversized proportions - note how the dropped shoulders give the whole silhouette a slouch, and the gentle curve of the hem to round things off. White

YOHJI YAMAMOTO zip around wallet

Black leather zip around wallet from Yohji Yamamoto. Leather 100%

YOHJI YAMAMOTO signature hoodie

Black cotton signature hoodie from Yohji Yamamoto. Cotton 100% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO 'Wait Until Dark' jacket

Army green cotton-blend 'Wait Until Dark' jacket from Yohji Yamamoto. This item is true to fit. Cotton 100% Cupro 100% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Blazer

Composition: 100% Triacetate Details: taffeta, buckle, solid colour, lapel collar, single-breasted , 3 buttons, multipockets, long sleeves, lined interior, two inside pockets, rear split Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO drawstring cropped trousers

Black drawstring cropped trousers from Yohji Yamamoto. Rayon 100% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Duffle coat

Composition: 100% Polyester Details: techno fabric, no appliqués, solid color, turtleneck, single-breasted , frogs, two breast pockets, multipockets, long sleeves, padded inner, montgomery model Measurements: Length 77 cm Black

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Runway coat

Black and grey wool and silk Runway coat from Yohji Yamamoto. Silk 100% Wool 100% Cupro 100% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO sleeve pocket shirt jacket

Black wool sleeve pocket shirt jacket from Yohji Yamamoto. Wool 100% Cupro 100% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO logo print T-shirt

Green ramie blend logo print T-shirt from Yohji Yamamoto. Rayon 85% Ramie 15% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO charm embellished jacket

Black cotton and linen charm embellished jacket from Yohji Yamamoto. Cotton 100% Linen/Flax 100% Do Not Wash/Do Not Dry Clean

YOHJI YAMAMOTO classic shirt

Black cotton-linen blend classic shirt from Yohji Yamamoto. Cotton 90% Linen/Flax 10% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO slouched coat

Black slouched coat from Yohji Yamamoto. Rayon 100% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO long-sleeve top

White cotton long-sleeve top from Yohji Yamamoto. Cotton 100% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO classic shirt

White cotton classic shirt from Yohji Yamamoto. Cotton 100% Hand Wash

YOHJI YAMAMOTO zip detailed coat

Black wool zip detailed coat from Yohji Yamamoto. Wool 100% Cupro 100% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO classic shirt

Black wool classic shirt from Yohji Yamamoto. Wool 100% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO woven stripe shirt

Navy and ecru linen woven stripe shirt from Yohji Yamamoto. Linen/Flax 100%

YOHJI YAMAMOTO woven stripe shirt

Navy and grey linen woven stripe shirt from Yohji Yamamoto. Linen/Flax 100% Dry Clean Only

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Long Zip Wallet

YOHJI YAMAMOTO crossed detail slippers

Black leather and bos taurus crossed detail slippers from Yohji Yamamoto. Leather 100% rubber 100% Bos Taurus 100%

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Bandage Back Blazer

Bondage back strap detail. Padded shoulders. Side flap pockets. Button front closures. Chest welt pocket. Dry clean only. Made in Japan. Lining: 100% cupro. Self: 100% wool.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Back Open Chain Stitch Shirt

100% Cotton. Made in Japan.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Rie Sweater

Long sleeve knit sweater in Black. Rib knit crewneck collar, cuffs, and hem. Jacquard graphic knit in white at front. Button placket at side vent. Tonal stitching. Heavy gauge Intarsia Jacquard knit crafted from 100% Cotton. Made in Japan.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Long Shirt Coat

Button-up shirt jacket. Long length. Side pockets and a pocket on chest. 100% Cotton. Made in Japan.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Staff Shirt

100% Cotton. Made in Japan.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Coin Pocket Wide Pants

100% Wool. Made in Japan.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Army Flap Overshirt

100% Linen. Made in Japan.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Big Long Sleeve Staff Tee

100% Cotton. Made in Japan.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Cross Shirt

100% Soie Silk. Made in Japan.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Tuck Pants

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Y-Type Collar Shirt

Long sleeve shirt in white. Y-shape collar. Button closure and patch pocket at front. Vented hem. Single-button barrel cuffs. Tonal stitching. 100% cotton. Made in Japan.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Armhole Open Jacket

100% Linen. Made in Japan.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Regular Chain Shirt

100% Cotton. Made in Japan.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO embroidered jacket

Black and white cotton and wool-blend Rider jacket from Yohji Yamamoto. Cotton 100% Cupro 100% Wool 40% Dry Clean Only

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Yohji Yamamoto launched his eponymous line in Tokyo in 1976, with the idea of creating men’s coats that could cover and protect a woman. He debuted his womenswear in Paris in 1981, with dramatic runway shows that furthered his reputation as an avant-garde visionary – although he prefers the title of “dressmaker” for its humble significance. Over the years, Yamamoto has refined his signature silhouette of long, sweeping skirts, expertly draped dresses and trousers, and asymmetrically cut tailoring in an all-black palette to achieve an at once challenging, romantic, and unconventionally elegant effect. His voluminous shapes at once conceal and intrigue, infusing artistic cuts with an intellectual and poetic sensibility indebted to Eastern philosophy.

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