Switch it Up
5 fashion houses with a fresh creative vision, 5 super coveted collections to shop
They’re the innovative designers who have arrived at their new fashion homes to great fanfare, to the houses whose shows are frequently the hottest tickets in town. But who are these individuals tasked with reworking the DNA of our favourite labels, and how exactly are they doing it?
With fashion month in full swing, and some of the newly instated designers set to show their collections for the first time, we’re giving you the rundown on the names you need to know now.
Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent
The story so far: Anthony Vaccarello took over at Saint Laurent after the departure of Hedi Slimane, a designer who brought about significant and successful change at the house. So much so in fact that you could say Vaccarello has not one but two sets of shoes to fill - the outgoing Slimane and the iconic Yves Saint Laurent himself. Now in his second season, Vaccarello is concentrating on reworking his idea of who the Saint Laurent woman is - via his own aesthetic - exploring Eighties excess, extravagance and glamour.
Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga
The story so far: Spanish couturier Cristobal Balenciaga was known as “The King of Fashion” during his post-war heyday, and his structural silhouettes, masterful tailoring and uncompromising attention to detail secured him a place as one of the best designers of all time. Vetements designer Demna Gvasalia took over in 2015 and is still in the process of putting his own stamp on the label: his penchant for avant-garde streetwear translates into pieces that combine wearability with a sense of modern sophistication.
Francesco Risso at Marni
The story so far: The Marni aesthetic is impossible to mistake: during her time at the label she founded in 1994, Consuelo Castiglioni made architectural shapes, standout prints and a vintage-inspired palette her stock in trade. Prada alum Francesco Risso is now at the helm and keeping things right on track, putting the focus firmly on femininity and exploring the label’s established signatures with undeniable energy and freshness.
Raf Simons at Calvin Klein 205W39NYC
The story so far: Arguably the most buzzed-about show of fashion month, Calvin Klein 205W39NYC is led by the Belgian designer Raf Simons. When the eponymous designer was still in residence, the label was one of the key proponents of Nineties American minimalism; now, over the course of the past year Simons has taken the Americana element and run with it, riffing on cowboy styling, denim and varsity looks.
Fran Stringer at Pringle of Scotland
The story so far: 18 months into her tenure at Pringle of Scotland, Fran Stringer is drawing inspiration from the Scottish brand’s 200 year archive, refreshing its luxury cashmere knitwear in new and unexpected ways - think modern silhouettes, earthy hues and mix-and-match textures. The Argyle check, which has been a signature since 1934, also makes a comforting appearance across separates and accessories.